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07/23/2003
no sleep 'til greenland
A week ago, after seven years of drilling, scientists finally reached 10,000 feet down through Greenland's ice cap and hit rock-bottom. They expect to find life forms that have been buried for 120,000 years. The only dream my father ever expressed to me was a desire to visit Alaska before he died. He never made it, but last year I made the trip for him. I need to visit Greenland before I die. That’s because I often feel like the world’s largest island with 10,000 feet of ice inside my head. I need to know what’s underneath it all.
I've recently become obsessed with Greenland, as I am with all hinterlands, wastelands, deserts, and slums. It seems more remote than the dark side of the moon. It’s the world’s largest island—three times the size of Texas—but with only one person for every fifteen square miles. Despite its name, there is no arable land in Greenland. It’s almost entirely smothered in ice.